The purpose of this article is not to tell you how to do it,
but rather to acquaint you with the various steps that are
involved in giving a horn a good overhaul and having the results
be better than new.
PREPARATION
First, apply the best penetrating oil you can find (I use
Corrosion Cracker from Ferree
Tool) to each and every gap in the keywork, to the tops and
bottoms of all screws, and to the base of all needle springs, and
let the horn sit for a day or so while the oil does its magic. This
will make disassembly much easier and will greatly reduce the
chances of damaging the screws as you remove them. While the
instrument is still assembled, check all keywork for excess play,
and note the relative thickness of all bumpers and key silencers. I
go over the entire horn using the saxophone inspection sheet found
in the Erik Brand Band Instrument Repair Manual. This helps me plan
what repairs will be necessary to each individual part of the horn.
DISASSEMBLY AND INSPECTION
I start at the top and remove everything that comes off the horn.
During this process, I get a chance to look at the mechanism closely
and spot trouble. Check the posts for alignment, the existing pads
for a "centered" impression from the tonehole, the rods
for straightness, As I remove the pivot screws, I closely examine
the tips for excessive wear or damage. I place all the screws and
rods in a board which enables me to keep them organized, and I stick
the needle springs (even though I am not going to recycle them) in a
piece of cardboard so I can measure them later for length and
diameter. The neck opening and tenon diameter are measured with a
digital caliper for roundness and specification. The neck and body
octave pips should be removed for cleaning/modification/replacement.
As I take the keys off the horn, I note the dentwork to be done and
the condition of the toneholes.
PREPARATION OF THE MECHANISM
Remove the pads, bumpers, and key silencers and any adhesive
holding them on. The surfaces must be perfectly clean! Check all rod
screws for straightness by rolling them on a perfectly flat surface
(I use a granite block accurate to .0015), and recut any damaged
screw slots with a jeweler’s saw. Polish all the rod screws with
600 grit emery paper. Clean and smooth the interior of all the tubes
with a hinge tube file. Level all of the key cups on your
jeweler’s anvil. Swedge the keywork as needed, and even the ends
of the tubes with a fine file. Be certain that all of the cup ribs
are perpendicular to the tubes. Clean and degrease the keywork, and
install the pads and bumpers. It’s a good idea to use sheet teflon
on any sliding mechanism. If you’re going to use cork or felt for
bumpers or silencers, compress it first with a pair of pliers.
GET THE BODY READY
I always give the body a good bath before I do anything. If
it’s nice and clean, I can more easily see the dents. Straighten
the body tube if needed, and remove all of the dents. Get the bent
key guards back into alignment, and sight down each line of posts to
be certain that they are properly aligned. If you took the bell off,
apply a bead of silicone sealer to the joint, and be certain (if
it’s a Mk VI) that the bell to body tube ring is perfectly round.
J. L. Smith and Company sells a great tool for this essential job.
Install the octave pips after you’re satisfied they are clean,
straight, and the opening is the diameter you want. Check the neck
for roundness, and be certain that the tenon is round (perfectly!)
and the opening is correct. Install teflon in all of the flat spring
guides and key cradles.
PUT IT BACK TOGETHER
Reassemble the horn, adjust the action, and deleak. Check your
work. Let it sit for a couple of days and check it again. Use a leak
light in a dark room and check it again. Remember that if your pads
are not seating by gravity alone, you have not done your job
correctly! Of course, the adjusting and regulating is the toughest
part of the job, and that’s a topic for another day!
